Αυτά μου φαίνονται ελληνικά… It’s all Greek to me. When reading the advice given out about driving in bad weather conditions, it always makes me want to spoon-gob the entire contents of a tin of Coleman’s Mustard Powder because I believe there needs to be more detail than the helpful, safe language that is used. I get asked things that stem from simple advice like this, which some think is commonsense or “everyone knows that” or “they must be thick” – it’s not always commonsense, no they don’t and so what if they are, it doesn’t matter; stop judging and start helping.
Therefore, I’ve put the terminology provided by this article http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/8443690.stm into layperson’s language below. This information is not based on a specific car or technique or anything complicated, I’ve just sorted the wheat from the chaff with some plain speaking for those who are not familiar or need a more basic understanding:
"DRIVING IN SNOW AND ICE"
"...When driving in snow, get your speed right - not too fast so that you risk losing control, but not so slow that you risk losing momentum when you need it - and brake, steer and accelerate as smoothly as possible..." What is a good speed in the ice and snow? The word ‘speed’ is the wrong terminology. ‘Progress’ is better. Speed will always be associated by the general public with going fast. Keep your progress slow and allow extra time to get to where you want to be.
"...Start gently from stationary, avoiding high revs. If you get yourself into a skid the main thing to remember is to take your foot off the pedals and steer..." How do you start gently? What does gentle mean in driving terms? It means SLOW, it means it’s going to take you longer because you’ve got to do things more DELICATELY than normal. A skid is what happens in the dry and the wet, it is not what happens in ice and snow; the tyres slip because there is no contact between them and the tarmac/ground. The wheels lock and basically you are just sliding. Where there is sludge, there is a skid and slip risk. There are two types of skid; front wheel and rear wheel. Keep CALM. Steer into whatever direction the car is going during the skid to find some grip. Skidding aside, general steering out of trouble is good but don’t do it suddenly. Keep a firm grip of the steering wheel and don’t let it slip through your hands; feed it. Don't think of Jeremy Clarkson antics when you do this.
"...Only use the brake if you cannot steer out of trouble..." To be honest, if you use your brakes on the snow/ice – they won’t work; the tyres will just slip - like a 4x4 does on a muddy track and you’ll be more out of control. The key to not braking suddenly is looking ahead and thinking about what you need to do for what’s happening in the distance before you get anywhere near the trouble. If you have to use it, use it early and use it delicately. Adjust your foot position so you’re not using your foot-balls.
"...Double or even triple your normal stopping distance from the vehicle in front. Drive so that you do not rely on your brakes to be able to stop - on an icy surface they simply may not do that for you!..." What is normal stopping distance? Most don’t know because they’ve forgotten or their driving instructor didn’t cover it in detail. What about braking distances? What is a braking distance? What about the distance you’ve travelled before your foot has actually connected with the brake pedal? In a nutshell, SPACE is TIME - time to think about what you need to do for what is going to happen in the distance. Initially, reducing progress can be simply achieved by just taking your foot off the gas pedal ('acceleration sense'), therefore automatically creating more space in front of you without the need for braking at that moment in time.
The key is in your observations - see with your feet and I don't mean take your socks off and put your plates* on your dashboard so your toes can see out of the windscreen. I mean use reflex in your gas foot in relation to what you are seeing. If you get used to doing this in normal weather conditions, it will become natural to your driving style and help you in any type of weather. How do you determine enough space? eg, imagine: The width of a football pitch, the width of a supermarket carpark, the length of your garden (if you have a long one), the height of the building you live in (unless you live in a bungalow – don’t be difficult… I’m way ahead of you). Try to use something you can associate with, that means something to you. Looking at the length of 2 cars parked in a road is not enough space to provide enough time in which to decide what you’ve got to do.
nb* - plates / plates of meat = feet (Cockney Rhyming Slang)
"...If your vehicle has ABS in very slippery conditions it will not give you the same control it would in others. Do not rely on it..." What is ABS? Anti-lock Braking System. What IS the main advantage of it? Should we ‘rely’ on it even in normal driving conditions? No, we should never ‘rely’ on it – the main advantage of it is that it allows you to steer if the wheels lock. If you are braking and it engages, you are braking too suddenly or too much. What does it feel like? You feel a vibration under your braking foot; a bit like a hook has fallen out of the bottom of the vehicle and is scraping along the floor. Move your foot position on the brake pedal to allow for more control – if you brake with your foot-balls, it’s too hard. Never rely on your vehicle – ever. Rely on YOU.
"TOP TIPS FOR DRIVING IN SNOW AND ICE"
"...Plan your journey around busier roads as they are more likely to have been gritted. Avoid using shortcuts on minor roads - they are less likely to be cleared or treated with salt, especially country lanes..." Good advice and terminology. Does what it says on the tin. See http://extranet7.kent.gov.uk/SaltingRoutes/Map.aspx for Kent's major and secondary gritting routes.
"...On motorways stay in the clearest lane where possible, away from slush and ice. Keep within the clear tyre tracks if you can..." Not bad but bear in mind those clear tyre tracks are still wet/slippery and might have also frozen in patches where micro-climates are (ie, black ice where the sun hasn’t been). This applies to any time of the day. Be aware. Never think ‘it’s not going to happen’.
"...Stay in a higher gear for better control, and if it is slippery, in a manual car move off in a higher gear, rather than just using first..." What is meant by higher gear, lower gear? More power or less power? When people use the terminology re lower/higher gears, they are referring to the actual numbers on the gearstick. Gears are all about power. Gear 1 is the most powerful. So what they mean here is a gear with less power in it, being 2 or 3. You must use the clutch bite balance ‘slowly’, else it will stall. If you set too much gas pedal, the engine will rev too high and the wheels will start to spin. Move your foot position so your foot-balls are off the main part of the gas pedal so you can control the pressure you’re applying more effectively.
"...On a downhill slope get your speed low before you start the descent, and do not let it build up - it is much easier to keep it low than to try to slow down once things get slippery..." Think way ahead about this. Can you go another route? Use engine braking in gear 1. This holds your vehicle at a particular speed ie, about 5-15 mph depending on your vehicle and how steep the hill/slope is. Once in gear, keep your foot away from the clutch. When you push the clutch down, it releases the engaged gear from holding back the wheel speed, therefore they spin faster because they are revolving freely - rather like the wheels on a toy car. Adjust your foot position so you don’t use your foot-balls on the brake pedal. Use the pedals delicately. Take your time; a lot of time and ignore pressure from other impatient drivers.
"...In falling snow use dipped headlights or foglights to make yourself visible to others (especially pedestrians) - but as conditions improve make sure your foglights are only on if necessary as they can dazzle other drivers..." Your ‘dipped’ headlights are your ‘headlights’. “Foglights” = Low visibility lights. Low visibility means you cannot see more than 100 metres in front of you; be it snow, fog OR spray on the motorway day or night. BE SEEN. Why are they called 'dipped headlights'? The actual bulb tips (on some vehicles) have been ‘dipped’ in something to make them dimmer. Make sure all your lights are clear of ice/snow/frost before you drive. Check your tail lights and your brake lights. You’re checking the bulbs haven’t blown. It takes 5 minutes before you set out. It is illegal to drive with defective headlights and you should have at least two brake lights working. Check them regularly – BE SEEN in the daylight, SEE in the dark. In bad weather conditions, the same applies.
"...If you are following another vehicle at night, using their lights to see ahead can cause you to drive dangerously close - keep well back from other traffic..." Not a bad piece of advice but how far back is "keep well back"? Difficult to judge in the dark. Think ‘small’ tail lights to determine distance and if you see brake lights, reduce your progress, even though you consider you have left a big enough gap. You can’t see what that other driver has seen up ahead. Just believe the unexpected. It doesn’t matter if it hasn’t happened; you’ve reacted to be pro-active. Space is time remember. What does pro-active mean in driving terms? It means you’re thinking ahead to what ‘might’ happen and preparing before it ‘might’ occur. A bit like Christmas food shopping…. just in case unexpected visitors arrive. If it doesn’t happen; it doesn’t matter - all the more for you!
We take our knowledge about driving for granted, however, it's always limited to what we learnt from the early days and what we've learnt through experience since that time, if we haven't already brushed with the Harold Pottery world of Advanced Driving. I've used many techniques with licence holders in the past to improve their driving from a safety viewpoint. At first, they say "err that feels weird, I really don't want to do it" and then at the end of their drive say "hmmm, that made such a difference, it's easier".
However, like life... you can't please all the people all the time and that's why I've got a Kevlar tongue... because I've had to bite it so much.
Μία γλώσσα δεν είναι ποτέ αρκετή... One language is never enough.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kevlar
http://www.roada.org.uk/ - Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents
http://www.iam.org.uk/ - Institute of Advanced Motorists